The Girard-Perregaux Laureato: A Genta-Era Sports Watch That Deserves More Attention

In 1975, Gerald Genta designed the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet. The watch redefined what a luxury sports watch could be and started a category that now includes the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the Rolex Oysterquartz. Most enthusiasts know that history. What fewer know is that earlier the same year, before the Royal Oak was even on retailers' shelves, another integrated-bracelet sports watch had already gone into production. That watch was the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. It launched in 1975 with a quartz movement, a faceted octagonal bezel, an integrated bracelet, and a clous-de-Paris dial. Genta did not design it. But Genta was almost certainly aware of it, because the Genevan watchmaking community was small enough in the mid-1970s that nothing stayed quiet.

Five decades later, the Laureato remains one of the most under-discussed watches in haute horology. The case profile is distinctive enough that no other brand can copy it. The movements are in-house. The price-to-finish ratio is among the strongest in the luxury sports watch category. And the secondary market has not yet priced in what the watch is. This is a buyer's guide for collectors who want a Genta-era integrated sports watch without paying the Genta-era premium that the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Overseas now command.

What the Laureato is

The Laureato is Girard-Perregaux's integrated-bracelet luxury sports watch. The case has an octagonal bezel sitting on top of a round mid-case, which is a profile no other brand produces. The bezel is polished, the case sides are brushed, and the bracelet uses three-link construction that tapers from the case to the clasp. The dial across most current production carries the clous-de-Paris hobnail texture in tone-on-tone variations of blue, green, copper, and grey.

The mechanical core is GP's in-house calibre 4500 in the time-and-date references, the calibre GP03300 in the chronograph references, and a series of specialist calibres in the limited editions. All movements are produced at GP's manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds. None are sourced from Sellita or ETA. That matters for two reasons: the finishing is at a level above the integrated-sports-watch competitors that share the same price band, and the service path goes directly to GP rather than through a generic movement service centre.

The case sizes that matter

38mm

The most versatile Laureato. Sits flat under a dress cuff, reads as a luxury sports watch with a dressier proportion than the 42mm. The 38mm references include the standard time-and-date 81005 series and the 50th anniversary Laureato Fifty edition.

For buyers with wrists between 6.5 and 7.25 inches, the 38mm Laureato is the case size to start with. It is the equivalent of the 36mm Nautilus or the 37mm Royal Oak (model 15500ST proportions) in terms of how it sits on the wrist.

41mm

The original Laureato case size for the 225th anniversary editions and the standard 81000 series. Calibre 4500 inside. Slightly larger than the 38mm but still proportioned as a luxury sports watch rather than a tool watch.

42mm

The largest standard Laureato case, used for the chronograph references and the ceramic models. The 42mm 81010 series in steel and the 81015 in ceramic are the references buyers gravitate to when they want maximum wrist presence within the Laureato design language.

The dial colours, ranked by collector demand

Blue clous-de-Paris

The canonical Laureato dial. The 81010-11-431-11A in 42mm and the matching 81000-11-431-11A in the 41mm 225th anniversary edition are the references most often associated with the line. Pre-owned: $7,490 to $10,950 depending on case size and edition.

Green clous-de-Paris

The 81010-11-3153-1CM in 42mm with green clous-de-Paris dial. Green has become the collector's quiet preference across the integrated sports watch category over the last three years, and the Laureato green dial has aged particularly well because the tone-on-tone clous-de-Paris reads richer in green than in some of the brighter colour options.

Pre-owned market position: $7,800 for clean full-set examples.

Sage green

The 81005-11-3407-1CM in 38mm with sage green dial. A lighter, dustier green than the standard green clous-de-Paris. Limited production. The dial reads almost neutral under indoor light and reveals its green character only under direct sunlight, which is the design intent.

Pre-owned market position: $12,250 for full-set examples.

Copper clous-de-Paris

The 81005-11-3154-1CM in 38mm with copper clous-de-Paris dial. Warmer tone than the blue or green variants, with metallic flecks that catch direct light. The copper Laureato is the reference for buyers who want the integrated sports watch silhouette but a dial colour that announces itself less obviously than blue.

Pre-owned market position: $10,900 for clean full-set examples.

The 225th anniversary editions

Reference 81000-11-431-11A (Laureato 41mm 225th Anniversary, blue dial)

The 41mm steel Laureato produced for Girard-Perregaux's 225th anniversary in 2016. Blue clous-de-Paris dial, calibre 4500, limited production run. The 225th anniversary editions are the references that put the modern Laureato back on the collector map after a quieter period in the 2000s.

Pre-owned market position: $10,745 to $10,950 for full-set examples.

The 50th anniversary Laureato Fifty

Reference 81008-63-3412-1CM (Laureato Fifty 39mm, 50th Anniversary)

The Laureato Fifty is the limited edition produced for the line's 50th anniversary in 2025. 39mm case, distinct dial treatment, calibre 4500. The Fifty sits at the centre of GP's anniversary year and is the reference collectors will look back on as the defining Laureato of the 2020s.

Pre-owned market position: $21,250 for full-set examples. The Fifty trades at a premium to the standard 38mm and 41mm Laureatos because of its limited production and anniversary status.

The ceramic Laureatos

Reference 81010-32-631-32A (Black Ceramic 42mm)

The Laureato in black ceramic case and bracelet. 42mm, matte ceramic finish that absorbs glare rather than reflecting it. Calibre 4500. The black ceramic Laureato is the most stealth-luxury expression of the line, with a finish that reads closer to a Hublot than to a steel sports watch.

Pre-owned market position: $13,490 for clean full-set examples.

Reference 81015-32-001-32A (Laureato Skeleton Ceramic, 42mm)

The skeletonised Laureato in black ceramic. Openworked dial reveals the movement architecture. 42mm case, ceramic case and bracelet. This is the most expensive standard Laureato reference and the one closest to GP's haute horology range.

Pre-owned market position: $31,800 for full-set examples in mint condition.

The chronograph references

Laureato Chronograph 42mm

The standard Laureato Chronograph in steel. 42mm case, calibre GP03300, integrated chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch. The chronograph references add timing functionality to the line at a price point well below the equivalent Royal Oak Chronograph or Nautilus Chronograph.

Pre-owned market position: $12,450 for full-set examples.

Reference 81020-11-3370-1GM (Screw Down Octagon Chrono Pushers)

The Laureato chronograph variant with screw-down chronograph pushers. Distinct case feature that separates this reference from the standard chrono. Pre-owned: $14,450.

The Laureato Absolute

Laureato Absolute "Gold Fever" Limited Edition

The Laureato Absolute is GP's more aggressive interpretation of the Laureato silhouette, with darker case finishing, larger proportions, and a sportier dial language. The Gold Fever limited edition is one of the more interesting Absolute variants, with gold accents against the darker case.

Pre-owned market position: $9,250 for clean examples.

Why the Laureato is under-priced relative to peers

The Laureato sits in an unusual market position. Its design pedigree (1975 launch, original Genta-era integrated sports watch competitor) is on par with the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Its movement quality (in-house GP calibres with traditional finishing) is on par with the Vacheron Overseas. Its case finishing is at a level most enthusiasts associate with the top of the luxury sports watch category.

And yet a steel time-and-date Laureato in 41mm trades around $7,500 to $11,000 on the pre-owned market. A steel Royal Oak 15500 trades closer to $40,000. A steel Nautilus 5711 trades closer to $200,000. The Vacheron Overseas in steel trades closer to $35,000.

The gap is not because the Laureato is a lesser watch. It is because Girard-Perregaux's brand recognition in the United States, where the luxury watch market sets most of the global pricing, has been quieter than its Genevan peers'. For collectors who care about what the watch is rather than what the brand polls, the Laureato is one of the strongest value propositions in haute horology.

Which Laureato to buy

For a buyer who wants the integrated sports watch silhouette and a dress-cuff proportion, the 38mm in copper, sage green, or standard clous-de-Paris is the answer. The case sits flat, the dial colours hold up under varied lighting, and the price-to-finish ratio is the strongest in the line.

For a buyer who wants wrist presence within the Laureato language, the 42mm in green or blue clous-de-Paris is the equivalent of the larger Royal Oak or Nautilus references, at a fraction of the price.

For a buyer who wants a collector's piece with anniversary status, the 225th anniversary 41mm or the 50th anniversary Fifty 39mm deliver verifiable rarity within the line.

For a buyer who wants the most distinctive case material, the black ceramic 42mm in either standard or skeleton configuration is the Laureato at its most aesthetically ambitious.

What to inspect before buying a pre-owned Laureato

• Movement identification. Calibre 4500 (time-and-date) and GP03300 (chronograph) are the dominant modern Laureato movements. Both want GP service. Verify which is in the watch and check service intervals against production year.
• Case finishing. The Laureato case has crisp transitions between the brushed mid-case sides and the polished bezel. Over-polished examples lose those transitions. Inspect the bezel facets and the case flanks under direct light.
• Dial originality. Clous-de-Paris dials are not commonly replaced on service. Verify the dial pattern, colour, and printing against production photographs for the reference year.
• Bracelet condition. The three-link Laureato bracelet shows stretch with daily wear. Check the play at the clasp and the fit at the end links.
• Caseback. Limited edition Laureatos (225th anniversary, Laureato Fifty, Gold Fever Absolute) carry engraved or numbered casebacks. Verify the markings against documentation.
• Ceramic case integrity. Black ceramic Laureatos are scratch-resistant but can chip if struck on a hard edge. Inspect the bezel and case corners for any micro-chips.
• Box, papers, warranty card. Full-set examples command a 10 to 15 percent premium and matter most on the limited editions where authentication is more important.

Further reading

• How to Buy a Pre-Owned Luxury Watch – the framework for inspection, authentication, and red flags before any pre-owned purchase.
• Royal Pop and the Royal Oak: The Genta Original – the watch that defined the integrated sports watch category.
• The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference Guide – if you want a dress watch rather than an integrated sports watch with the same restraint.
• Choosing a Luxury Watch as a Gift – the 38mm Laureato sits on our short list of best under-the-radar first luxury sports watches.